With the backing of the government and the IRDNC several Caprivi communities are opening small campsites. These are broadly based on the modus operandi of the camps that have helped to rejuvenate both the game and the local communities in the Kaokoveld. Supporting these, by staying there and paying for their crafts, and by using their skills as guides to the local area, is a practical way in which visitors can help some of the poorest of rural communities raise both money and pride. Most of these sites only have rudimentary facilities and simple ablutions – so they'll only suit you if you have a self-contained 4WD with your own food and supplies.

One of the first, at N//goabaca, opened in May '97 on the eastern bank of the Okavango River, just south of Divundu. Its turn-off is 4km from the bridge, and the campsite is 3km from road. N//goabaca has four private pitches, each with a flush toilet, hot shower and a tap for water. Two have viewing decks, and all overlook Popa Falls from the eastern bank. It's run by Kxoe Bushmen, many of whom worked as trackers and scouts for the South African Army during the war, but have subsequently been economically and politically marginalised. Tourism can not only pay them, but also encourages them to put a higher value on their traditional skills and bushcraft, so support them if you can. Book through IRDNC in Katima Mulilo (tel: 066 252518; fax: 066 252108) or see www.nacobta.com.na for more information.