Where to stay

If distances dictate that you stop around Mariental, then the hotels in town are convenient and generally cheaper than the nearby lodges. If you've more time, or are on a pre-arranged itinerary, then either Anib Lodge, Intu Afrika, or the resort at Hardap Dam are possibilities. See below for all three. Note that, without an advanced booking, you're more likely to find rooms in town. The Mariental and Sandberg Hotels are both on the main Marie Brandt Street, two blocks apart, while the Guglhupf is on a side road.

Mariental Hotel

(18 rooms) Marie Brandt St, PO Box 619, Mariental; tel: 063 242466/7/8; fax: 063 242493; email: mnhotel@iafrica.com.na

Since before independence, this has been the best hotel in town by far. It was renovated a few years ago, when a small swimming pool and fairly well-equipped gym were added, and all the rooms were brought up to the same standards. All now have en-suite bathroom, air conditioning and a direct-dial telephone. The hotel promises three separate bars: the ladies, action, and public bars. (I welcome news on how these live up to their various names.) The hotel continues to be kept spotlessly clean, and the staff are friendly and helpful, even when the place is totally booked by businessmen, which is not uncommon.

Rates: single N$264.50, double N$356.50, including breakfast.

Sandberg Hotel

(14 rooms) Marie Brandt St, PO Box 12, Mariental; tel: 063 242291; fax: 063 240738

Like the Mariental Hotel, the Sandberg has been around for years and changed little in character. It remains less impressive than its rival, and its bar is certainly worth avoiding. That said, it too has done some renovation, reducing its number of rooms, installing air conditioning and direct-dial phones in all the rooms, and building a small (though none too clean) pool outside. If the Mariental is full, then the Sandberg's not as bad as it used to be, and is worth looking at.

Rates: single N$230, double N$333.50, triple N$437, including breakfast.

Guglhupf Restaurant

(11 rooms) PO Box 671, Park St, Mariental; tel: 063 240718/9; fax: 063 242525.

In spite of the name, this is a hotel, on the corner of Park and Mark streets, behind the main street near the Bank of Windhoek. All the en-suite rooms have air conditioning and a TV, and the staff are friendly. The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with main meals including steaks, pizza and pasta.

Rates: single N$185, double N$295; breakfast is à la carte and extra.

River Chalets

(6 rooms) PO Box 262, Mariental; tel: 063 240515, cell: 081 128 2601; fax: 063 242418

The cheerful yellow and blue building that is the River Chalets is on the west side of the main B1 as it effectively bypasses Mariental. Its self-catering rooms each accommodates three or five people, and all have braai facilities.

Rates: single N$230, double N$315, 3-bed room N$346, 5-bed room N$460 per night. Breakfast N$17.

Where to eat

If you're staying at one of the hotels, then it is easiest to eat there: all three have restaurants in keeping with their general styles. If you're just passing through, then the three main garages have facilities to bite-and-run. The Engen garage at the north end of town has the Bambi take-away adjacent to it, serving pies and simple meals, whilst on the main road the Trek garage has a more extensive Wimpy with tables and menus. This serves what you'd find in any Wimpy across the world, and opens late into the evening. And at the BP station at the main entrance to town, the so-called ice-cream parlour also offers pies and other snacks.