Quivertree Forest Restcamp

(8 rooms, 8 bungalows, camping) PO Box 262, Keetmanshoop; tel/fax: 063 222835; email: quiver@iafrica.com.na

14km from Keetmanshoop is the Quivertree (or Kokerboom) Forest (see opposite), which stands on privately owned farmland. To get here, take the C16 road towards Koës, and turn off on to the M29 (marked just 29 on the road).

The farm itself is owned by Coenie and Ingrid Nolte, who are helpful and informative hosts. Accommodation consists of eight en-suite rooms in two separate houses, each with its own lounge and minibar, and one with a kitchen. In addition, there are eight comfortable self-catering bungalows, of a wonderful igloo design, all of which have en-suite facilities. Near by is a barbecue area, tree-house style. There is also a tree-shaded campsite adjacent to the Quivertree Forest.

It's also a great place for children, with a swimming pool, ingeniously converted from a large farm tank, and a trampoline, not to mention a family of meerkats and two pet warthogs. Rather less attractive is the stark cage behind the farm buildings where three cheetahs are housed. Staying here is a good alternative to Keetmanshoop, and makes it easier to see the forest and the rocks around dawn and dusk, when the light is at its best for photography.

Rates: single N$340, double N$600, including breakfast & dinner. Bed & breakfast only is N$235 single, N$440 double, and self-catering single N$200, double N$300. Camping N$55 per person (both dinner (N$80) and breakfast (N$35) are available by arrangement).

Panorama Campsite

(4 pitches) Tel: 063 225050

Campers seeking something a little more remote may be interested in this simple site some 40km from Keetmanshoop on the C17 towards Koës. Each pitch has a table, hot water and braai, with ablution blocks close by and wood available on site, though you will need to bring all other provisions with you. There is a 16km 4WD trail around the site, and a guided fossil 'trail', taking in the fossils of the huge mesosaurus that inhabited the freshwater lakes of Gondwanaland 270 million years ago. Stands of quivertrees are also a feature of this landscape, as are the giant dolorite rock formations. Costs for the trail are around N$30 per person, depending on group size, or visitors may drive themselves.

Rates: N$40 per pitch, plus N$10 per person. Braai available on request at N$35 per person.

Lafenis Restcamp

(21 bungalows and rooms, camping) P Bag 827, Keetmanshoop; tel/fax: 063 224316; fax: 063 224309; email: wheretostay@colourgem.co.za

Just south of Keetmanshoop on the B1, about 2km from the junction with the B4 for Lüderitz, this is a simple, friendly restcamp with a rather unlikely wild west theme. It caters adequately for overnight stops. There's a campsite with electric hook-ups, a swimming pool, and a small restaurant, and each of the small bungalows has air conditioning.

Rates: VIP rooms N$300 double; bungalows from N$180 (1-bed) to N$585 (7-bed), all including breakfast. Camping N$50 for the site, plus N$10 per adult, N$6 per child under 13.