About 287km from Henties Bay, the restcamp at Terrace Bay is the furthest north that visitors can drive on the coast. It's a real outpost, appearing just a few kilometres after a sign points off to Dekka Bay. It was built originally for a mining venture, and inherited by the government when that failed. Now there's nothing here apart from the small camp for visitors, run by the NWR, and its staff accommodation.

Fishermen come here all year, and even the President, Sam Nujoma, often takes his holidays here. His phalanx of bodyguards used to make fun company for the unsuspecting visitors he met there. Now, sadly, it seems that he books the whole place for himself and his entourage.

Terrace Bay's facilities are mostly old and basic, but all the bungalows have a fridge, a shower and a toilet. Bedding and towels are provided. Though not luxurious, the accommodation is adequate and Terrace Bay feels so isolated and remote that it can be a lot of fun for a day or two.

All your meals are provided whilst staying here, but there is also a small food shop by the office stocking alcohol, basic frozen braai meats and a few basic supplies, and a vital petrol station/garage.

If your time allows then one of the staff members (ask for Hans) might be persuaded to take you fishing. He can provide the tackle, bait, and know-how, making this a lot of fun even for the uninitiated. A typical trip would take from 14.00 to 17.00. Note that because the staff at Terrace Bay are government employees, they are forbidden from charging for such fishing expeditions, but do appreciate a reasonable 'tip' for their time and help.

Before you dine here, go and take a look at the big shed behind the office. On it you'll see (and smell) hundreds of cormorants which roost there every night – attracted by the warmth from the generator within. Check with the staff, but it may also be worth returning around 22.00 as a brown hyena is said to often stroll by then, looking for hapless cormorants that have fallen from the roof. Check also by the waterfront, where the day's catch is gutted.

Terrace Bay makes an excellent short stop between Swakopmund and Damaraland, and offers the opportunity for you to know the desert better. I normally recommend visitors who don't fish to stay here for a maximum of one night.