(8 twin-bed tents) PO Box 21783, Windhoek; tel: 061 226979; fax: 061 226999; email: logufa@mweb.com.na
Etendeka is an excellent tented camp about 18km east of Palmwag, on the open, rolling Etendeka lava plains. It is owned and run by Dennis Liebenberg, who takes a no-frills approach to giving his guests a real experience of the Kaokoveld.

Numbers are limited to 16 guests, accommodated in large tents. Each of the walk-in tents is provided with two beds, linen, towels, washbasin, a bush shower with hot and cold water, a flush toilet and electric light. Etendeka doesn't aim at luxury; but what it does, it does very well. The main dining and bar area are under canvas, and meals are a social occasion when everybody, including Dennis and the guides, normally eat together around the fire (it gets very chilly in winter), upon which much of the food is cooked. Such bush-cooking has been refined to an art form, so the cuisine from the embers is impressive.

Activities – guided walks and scenic and game drives – are all included, and tailored to guests' interests and abilities. After an early breakfast, a normal day might include a 2–4-hour walk, lunch, a few hours to relax, and perhaps a long afternoon game drive, incorporating a short hike on to one of the area's mountains for a sundown drink. If you're fit and active, then this is a great place to come walking.

The concession's game includes good populations of Hartmann's mountain zebra, oryx and springbok, as well as occasional giraffe and desert-adapted elephant, and very occasionally black rhino. The striking Euphorbia damarana are the predominant shrubs all around this area, and Etendeka's guides are excellent on their plants and birds, as well as animal identification.

Etendeka is remote and you cannot 'drop in' as you can at Palmwag. It must be booked in advance. Visitors normally drive themselves to a rendezvous by the veterinary fence (normally 16.00 in summer, 15.30 in winter – but check when you book), where Etendeka has covered parking places. From there the camp's 4WD will transfer them to the camp.

It is especially good to note that Etendeka is closely involved with the region's Community Game Guard scheme, and that it gives a proportion of its revenue to the local communities, so that they benefit from the income generated by visitors, and have an incentive to help preserve Kaokoveld's wild game.